The Sound of Edges on Korean Ice
The first thing you notice isn’t the view — it’s the cold. Korean cold is different from Japanese or European cold. It’s dry, sharp, the kind that makes your nose hairs freeze within thirty seconds of stepping off the KTX. By the time you’ve shuffled from Jinbu Station to the shuttle bus, your phone battery has dropped 15%. Welcome to Gangwon Province.
But that same dry cold is exactly why Korea’s snow is so good. The powder here isn’t heavy and wet like you’d get in the Alps. It’s light, almost squeaky underfoot, and the groomed runs at the bigger resorts hold their shape well into the afternoon. The 2018 PyeongChang Olympics put Korean skiing on the international map, and honestly, the infrastructure they built for that hasn’t gone to waste.
Four Resorts, Four Different Vibes
Yongpyong Resort is the one everyone talks about, and for good reason. Twenty-eight slopes spread across Pyeongchang, from gentle nursery runs to genuine black diamonds that hosted Olympic alpine events. The facilities are modern, night skiing runs until late, and there’s a direct KTX connection from Seoul — about 90 minutes door to door, which is hard to beat.
What the brochures don’t tell you: the weekend crowds can be brutal. Saturday mornings on the intermediate runs feel like rush hour on Line 2. If you can swing a weekday trip, do it.
High1 Resort in Jeongseon is the scenic one. Runs cut through old-growth forest, and on a clear day the views stretch across the Taebaek Mountains. It’s family-friendly — the beginner areas are genuinely gentle, not the “gentle” that actually means terrifying. There’s also a snow park if your kids are the type who’d rather build things than ski.
Vivaldi Park in Hongcheon wins on convenience alone. Ninety minutes from Seoul by car, which makes it the default choice for the weekend warrior crowd. Thirteen slopes, open late for night sessions. The trade-off is that it’s smaller and gets packed, especially around Korean school holidays.
For people who actually know what they’re doing on skis, Phoenix Pyeongchang is probably the strongest pick. Another Olympic venue, higher elevation, more consistent snow. The terrain has actual variety — not just the same intermediate run repeated eight times with different names.
Getting There Without the Headache
The KTX high-speed train from Seoul Station to Jinbu Station runs about 90 minutes. From Jinbu, shuttle buses connect to the Pyeongchang-area resorts. It’s straightforward, well-signed, and the shuttles are timed to meet the trains.
For Vivaldi Park and other resorts closer to Seoul, express buses leave from Dong Seoul Terminal. These are cheaper but slower, and weekend traffic on the highways can add an unpredictable hour.
One thing worth knowing: rental cars are an option, but Korean mountain roads in winter require chains, and if you’ve never driven on chains before, a highway in Gangwon Province is not where you want to learn. The bus is easier.
The Money Part
All major resorts do full equipment rental — skis, boots, poles, snowboard, the lot. You’re looking at roughly ₩50,000 to ₩70,000 for a full-day package. The gear is decent, nothing fancy. If you’re particular about boot fit, you might want to bring your own boots and rent the rest.
Lift passes are where advance booking really pays off. Walk-up prices are significantly higher — we’re talking 20 to 30 percent more — and most resorts have online booking systems that are reasonably navigable even if your Korean isn’t great. Multi-day packages that bundle accommodation exist and are usually worth it if you’re staying more than one night.
If you want the logistics handled, KLOOK has ski day-trip packages that bundle transport from Seoul, lift passes, and gear rental into one price. It’s not the cheapest way to do it, but it removes the guesswork — especially useful if it’s your first time navigating Korean resort infrastructure. For the hotel side, Trip.com tends to have competitive rates on the resort-adjacent accommodation that books out fast during peak weeks.
When to Go (and When to Avoid)
Mid-January to mid-February is the sweet spot for snow conditions. The base is deep, the temperatures are reliably below freezing, and the grooming is at its best.
Early December is hit-or-miss. Some years the snow comes early and conditions are great; other years you’re skiing on a thin layer over what is essentially a grassy hillside. Late February can be surprisingly good — warmer days, fewer crowds, and the snow is still holding.
Avoid Korean school holidays if you can. Late December through early January and the Lunar New Year period (which shifts around, so check the dates) are peak congestion. Lift lines that normally take five minutes suddenly take thirty.
After the Last Run
Korean ski resorts are weirdly good at the non-skiing parts. Most have a jjimjilbang — the Korean spa and sauna complex — which after a day in subzero temperatures feels approximately like being reborn. You lie on a heated floor in loose pajamas, eat roasted eggs, and wonder why this isn’t a thing everywhere.
The food situation is strong. Korean BBQ at resort restaurants is predictably excellent, but the real move is budae-jjigae — army stew. It’s a hot pot of kimchi, spam, instant noodles, and whatever else goes in. It sounds chaotic. It is chaotic. After eight hours in the cold, it’s the best thing you’ve ever eaten.
If you’re extending the trip beyond skiing, KKday has activity packages for Gangwon Province that cover everything from ice fishing to temple stays. The region has more going on than most people realize — it’s not just slopes and spas.
The Part Nobody Mentions
A few honest notes. Cell service at some of the more remote resorts is spotty — fine for messaging, frustrating for anything that needs bandwidth. The shuttle buses from Jinbu Station stop running surprisingly early in the evening, so check the last departure time or you’re looking at a ₩40,000+ taxi ride. And if you’re coming from overseas and need a Korean SIM or portable Wi-Fi, AeroBile rents pocket Wi-Fi devices that work in the mountain areas — worth sorting out before you arrive rather than scrambling at the airport.
Also, the resort restaurants are expensive. Like, noticeably. Bringing cup noodles and snacks from a convenience store is not just acceptable, it’s practically expected. The 7-Eleven at the base of Yongpyong does more business during ski season than most urban branches.
On the way back to Seoul, the KTX was warm enough that I fell asleep before we left Gangwon. Woke up at Seoul Station with goggle tan lines and a bruise on my hip from a fall I’d already forgotten about. The cold air on the platform felt different from Jinbu cold — city cold. Softer, somehow.
