The Sound Hits You First
You hear it before you see anything — a brass band warming up somewhere around the corner on Magazine Street, the tuba player running through a line that might be ‘When the Saints Go Marching In’ or might be something he’s making up on the spot. It’s 9 a.m. on a Saturday and you’re holding a cup of coffee that cost too much, and somebody is already wearing a purple wig.
That’s Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Not the version from TV — the actual thing, which is messier, louder, and somehow both more chaotic and more organized than you’d expect.
How the Parades Actually Work
Fat Tuesday falls on February 17, 2026. But the Carnival season starts way back on January 6 — Twelfth Night — which means parades begin trickling through the city weeks before the main event. This year is a short season, only 42 days, so things ramp up faster than usual.
The parades are organized by ‘krewes,’ private social organizations that spend all year building floats, choosing themes, and stockpiling throws. The big names you’ll hear about: Endymion rolls Saturday the 14th, Bacchus on Sunday the 15th — with newly minted Hall of Famer Drew Brees riding this year, which is a pretty big deal — and Zulu and Rex on Fat Tuesday morning. Bacchus’s 2026 theme is ‘Bacchus Celebrates America 250,’ with floats depicting eras of American history. Their LVII monarch is actor Patrick Warburton.
But here’s what the guidebooks don’t always mention: the smaller krewes are often more interesting. Krewe of Muses, an all-women krewe, rolls on Thursday the 12th and their signature throw is a hand-decorated shoe. Not a pair — one shoe. People lose their minds trying to catch one. Their 2026 theme is a Scooby-Doo parody called ‘A Muses Mystery Machine Shoe-B-Do-B-Doo,’ with Soledad O’Brien as Honorary Muse. That tells you everything about the krewe’s sense of humor.
Orpheus takes Lundi Gras — Monday the 16th — with the theme ‘All the World’s a Stage’ and Noah Wyle as Monarch.
Where to Stand (and How Early to Get There)
St. Charles Avenue is the classic parade route, and it’s classic for a reason — the live oaks create a natural canopy and the houses along the route have balconies packed with people throwing stuff down at you. Canal Street is wider, which means less intimate but easier to find a spot.
The catch: ‘finding a spot’ means getting there hours early. For the big parades, locals start staking out territory with folding chairs and tarps by noon for an evening parade. Some families have been claiming the same stretch of neutral ground (that’s what New Orleans calls a median) for decades.
If standing in one spot for five hours doesn’t sound appealing — and honestly, it gets old — walking along the route is fine too. You’ll miss the prime throwing range, but you’ll cover more ground and stumble into things you wouldn’t find otherwise. A second line forming on a side street, a jazz trio playing on someone’s porch, that kind of thing.
What You’re Going to Eat
King cake season runs the length of Carnival, and in 2026 you’ve got some wild options. NOCCA students teamed up with Emeril Lagasse on a Banana Cream Pie version, and Frank Brigtsen contributed a Strawberry Tres Leches. There’s also a Dubai chocolate king cake — pistachio, chocolate, and kataifi baked into brioche — that’s been selling out. Manny Randazzo’s stays traditional and people fight about whether that makes it the best or the most boring. Get one of each and decide for yourself.
The King Cake Hub moved this year to 3300 Gravier Street, which is useful to know if you want to try multiple bakeries’ offerings in one place — they stock over 100 varieties.
Beyond king cake: po’boys are everywhere and the quality is generally reliable. Crawfish étouffée if it’s in season (February is early, so check). Beignets at Café Du Monde if you don’t mind the line, or at Café Beignet if you do. And someone will hand you a go-cup of something alcoholic at some point — New Orleans is one of the few American cities where open containers are legal on the street.
For proper sit-down meals, book ahead. Restaurants fill up during Carnival and some run special Mardi Gras menus. TripAdvisor is decent for scoping out what’s actually open during the festival — some neighborhood spots close during parade days because the streets in front of them are literally blocked.
The Uncomfortable Parts
Let’s be honest about what’s hard. The crowds are enormous — the city sees something like 1.4 million visitors during Carnival, and the infrastructure doesn’t magically expand to match. Bathroom lines are long. Cell service gets spotty to unusable when a parade lets out and tens of thousands of people all try to call a ride at once.
Parking? Forget it. Just don’t drive. The St. Charles streetcar runs along the parade route but it stops service when parades are rolling, which is most of the afternoon and evening during the final week. Ride-sharing surge pricing during peak parade hours can be brutal — people report paying $40 for a ride that normally costs $8. Walking is honestly the most reliable way to get around.
Weather is unpredictable. February in New Orleans can be 70°F and sunny or 45°F and raining. Layer up and bring a rain jacket you don’t mind getting beer spilled on. Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable — you’ll walk more than you think.
And a practical note about safety: the main parade routes and the French Quarter are heavily policed and generally fine. But use common sense in quieter side streets late at night, keep your phone secure in crowds, and don’t flash expensive cameras around.
Beyond Bourbon Street
Bourbon Street is where most tourists end up, and it’s exactly what you’d expect — loud, drunk, entertaining for about an hour and exhausting after two. The real Mardi Gras spreads across the city.
The Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods have a more local feel, with smaller parades and house parties. The Garden District is gorgeous for walking even when there’s no parade — the architecture alone is worth the trip. And if you can find where the Mardi Gras Indians are masking, that’s something you won’t see anywhere else in the world.
Mardi Gras Indians are African American community groups who create elaborate beaded and feathered suits by hand — each one takes a full year to make and they’re never worn twice. The tradition goes back to the 18th century, rooted in solidarity between Black and Native American communities. They don’t publish a schedule; you kind of have to know someone or get lucky. Super Sunday, when the Indians parade publicly, usually happens the third Sunday in March, after Mardi Gras proper.
The Krewe of Barkus is a dog parade in the French Quarter. It’s exactly as delightful as it sounds.
Getting There and Finding a Bed
2026 is a short Carnival season and Fat Tuesday falls on Presidents’ Day, which means the final weekend overlaps with a three-day holiday. Hotels in the French Quarter and CBD were booked months ago. If you’re booking late, look at neighborhoods like Mid-City, Gentilly, or across the river in Algiers — they’re cheaper and the streetcar or a short ride-share gets you to the action.
For flights, CheapAir sometimes turns up decent fares to Louis Armstrong International, but book as early as you can. Flying into Baton Rouge and driving the 80 miles is a backup option if New Orleans flights are gouged.
For tours and experiences beyond just watching parades — cooking classes, swamp tours, cemetery walks — KLOOK and GetYourGuide both list New Orleans activities, though I’d double-check that anything you book is actually running during Carnival week since some operators adjust their schedules.
One Last Thing
I keep thinking about the morning after Fat Tuesday. Ash Wednesday. The city goes quiet in a way that feels almost physical after a week of noise. There’s confetti ground into the sidewalks on St. Charles and a crushed king cake box in a trash can on Magazine Street. The streetcar is running again and it’s half empty. Somebody left a single purple bead on the seat.
